Unfortunately for this prototype, but fortunately for you, my quality control standards are extensive. It hasn’t always been the case, but it only took one post-production shedding lambskin to ruin white t-shirts and transform testing standards. These days, each design is subject to multiple rounds of fittings where I discuss shape and feel with Martina, my pattern drafter and Lauren, my fit model. The former keeps keen eyes for pulling or sagging areas, which are eliminated on the drafts. Lauren acts out various postures, like driving a car or picking up a child, to make sure functionality isn’t sacrificed for style.
Once we’ve got a well-fitting base to work with, I sew a mock up in the intended material. To ensure it wears well in the long term, I wear the jacket in my day-to-day life and watch for flaking, stretching, wrinkling, and generally durability before pressing play on production. Originally, the Military Motorcycle Jacket was to be produced in navy and grey. While the navy shined in all areas, the grey skins just didn’t perform. The leather stretched while being sewn, it wasn’t sturdy enough to hold the weight of the zippers without sagging, and because it had a paper-y texture rather than a supple hand, the corners began to curl. And so, alas, this jacket was scrapped and replaced with olive, which, I’m thrilled to report performs exceptionally well!