Soft Tailoring

Since it’s what’s inside that counts, I thought I’d give you a look at the inner workings of the Shawl Collar Wrap. My team and I don’t just cut and sew, but also prepare, support, and secure the pieces of each garment to make sure it looks and feels amazing, while remaining affordable.

1) Preparation

Before anything hits the sewing machine, all of the pieces are prepared under the iron, following a placement diagram that takes into account the specific design’s unique needs. The individual pieces are partially fused with 100% wool interfacing, which adds warmth and provides support where it’s needed most. We also line the seams with tailor’s tape, which helps create nice, crisp folded edges when the coat is complete.

2) Structure

One of the defining features of my designs is the slim, but well-structured sleeve and I have yet to produce a jacket I’m happy with that doesn’t include proper padding. To keep the look polished, but not over the top, we remove some batting from the shoulder pad and insert it and a sleeve head onto the seam allowance of each coat. The sleeve head ensures a smooth cap roll and makes a huge difference to the appearance of the garment.

3) Security

Although most of the coat is completed on a sewing machine, I still pull out the hand needle and thread for a few important areas to ensure they stay where they are meant to. Free-hanging linings are fully blind hemmed by hand and tacked to the lining with a 1” crochet chain. Fully enclosed linings are hand tacked in the seam allowance, as is the neckline at centre back and shoulder, and the sleeve hem.

Coat: Shawl Collar Wrap in Forest Green and Burgundy
Photos: Ken Heinbecker
Beauty: Sarah Jamieson