Double Breasted Overcoat

Carried by blustery spring winds, a bagpipe’s wail drifted across the hilltop graveyard as family gathered to memorialize the life of my father, whom we lost a decade earlier. He was buried across the dirt road which led to my childhood home and farm, where he and my mother showed us the satisfaction of hard work with your hands, the enjoyment and freedom that come with self-employment, and the appreciation of life’s simple beauties, enhanced by a job well done.

My dad showed me what loving your work looks like and his death in 2015 motivated me to launch my collection. I remember near the end I told him I was thinking about closing my alterations business and pursuing my dream of having my own fashion brand and his response was “As it should be!”. Dad loved his work and gave me the gift of wanting to love mine through his example and encouragement.

In honour of this anniversary, I wanted to design a coat that had him in it. His family name, which I have kept, comes from Aberdeen in Scotland; a country well known for its beautiful family tartans. The Forbes clan design is navy and green, with a bold white stripe cut through. Tunde and I developed a pattern that would showcase it well, with minimal seaming and details that didn’t distract from its symmetry. Carefully cut and sewn to maintain the pattern lines, our execution enhanced its impact.

My design process includes evaluating client’s natural colour characteristics and I did the same for myself when designing the Double Breasted Overcoat. My colours, being cool toned, and of medium value and contrast, were better served with the lower contrast Black Watch tartan. It’s similarities to my family tartan, along with its harmonious colours, remind me of my father, while enhancing my complexion and seamlessly incorporating into my closet.

Fortunately or not, the sample was purchased less than 24 hours after I sewed on the last natural corozo nut button. I will absolutely be remaking this for myself for the fall and hope to make one for you as well. With 160 different tartans to choose from, your coat can commemorate or celebrate any Scottish, Irish, or Welsh clan, or you can express your individuality with a custom tartan design, unique to you and the meaning you attach.

Coat: Double Breasted Overcoat
Makers: Anneke Forbes + Tunde Kolebaba
Model: Anneke Forbes
Photos: Ken Heinbecker