Custom Lately
I’ve been much more diligent about documenting the custom work I do as of late. Although I share these self-portraits on social media regularly, it’s nice for special projects to have a permanent home here on my website. Scroll through for some insight into the processes captured.
I had some grey wool cashmere left over from the Exposed Zipper Coat, and thought it would be perfect for the Shawl Collar Wrap. I only had enough for two, and they were quickly snatched up by loyal customers of mine. Using dead stock fabrics is a sustainable option for a slow fashion studio such as mine, but a lot of the time reorder is not guaranteed. In this case, I really wish I that wasn’t true!
This client requested a brown wool cashmere blend, lined with gold. The glistening hue will stand out even more because we lengthened the Shawl Collar Wrap to maxi for an on-trend and bold silhouette. In the photo, I am securing the hem of the wool to the lining with a crochet chain. Allowing the hem to free-hang eliminates any pulling that might happen when the coat is fully enclosed.
Sewing the grey wrap coat pictured above.
Love the vivid hue this client chose!
Clients will often spice up a classic jacket with a contrasting lining. Shades of burgundy have been a popular choice for the black Double Zip Moto. Unfortunately, while sewing this jacket, my beloved walking foot sewing machine had to go in for servicing. Fortunately however, it was a super fast fix and I was able to finish the order in time!
A lot of times I am hesitant of a colour choice when I see the raw skins. Such was the case with this mid-tone grey lambskin, but in the end it turned out beautifully. When the client picked it up, she loved it so much, she ordered another on the spot! When clients have a custom pattern created, we keep it and future colours of the same fit are more affordable as a result.
Fabric sourcing can be tricky. Dye lots vary, so impressions of a colour based on the sample can differ greatly from the material that arrives to be cut. As a result, I try to manage expectations and make sure to get the sign off in person as often as I possibly can. If you do have a special colour in mind, definitely let me know because I love making unique iterations of my designs.
Although my designs are classic in silhouette, I do get quite creative with my construction techniques. I love problem solving so that my finishings are as polished, functional, and perfect as possible. The zipper construction on the sleeve and pocket of the Double Zip Moto is original and so, I have notes and illustrations in my notebook describing it that I check with while sewing. This allows me to get each step right the first time, so we don’t need to recut pieces and the jackets details always look effortless and never over-worked.
This purple Military Motorcycle Jacket is still a favourite of mine from this season. I used a snap press to attach silver spring snaps that are made in Germany. I am always looking for hardware that can match the quality of the garments we make. It doesn’t matter how perfectly I design, fit, and sew a jacket if the snaps fall off or tarnish.
