Zero Waste Sampling

I didn’t intentionally create a sustainable collection in the beginning, with eco objectives and rules around human rights. My brand began with just one style in two colours and a desire to offer my clients heirloom quality garments and a connection to how those garments are made. Fortunately, the DNA of my brand was inherently ethical, and although there is still plenty of room for improvement, I am slowly but surely making changes to become even more so.

Most recently, I have switched to zero waste sampling. Sampling is the process by which fashion houses test fit and design. A mock up is created of the garment in muslin or another inexpensive fabric, then it is cut and marked with the necessary adjustments. This process is iterated upon until the designer is happy with the final result. What is the industry standard for dealing with these samples? Usually they are tossed or torched.

To avoid waste, I have chosen instead to create samples that are complete, wearable garments. With a little more time and material, I am able to keep toiles out of the landfill, and cover the cost of new style development with their sale. Pictured below is the very first attempt at spring’s new release. This, along with every other sample we create until it is perfect, will be available at our next sample sale.

Jacket: Bluff Pocket Blazer (Fall 2020 release)
Photos: Ken Heinbecker