Serious About Sleeves

Setting a sleeve is one of those tricky sewing operations that many dread and others relish. For me, carefully guiding the shoulder right-side-out to reveal the final result is one of the most satisfying parts of constructing a jacket. Pucker-free, smooth, and rounded, a beautifully set sleeve is determined not only by construction, but also preparation. Our pattern shape is slim but unrestricting, gathering the sleeve cap is treated as an unrushable art, and a sleeve head and pad are inserted for the perfect structure/comfort balance. Simply put, I take sleeves seriously. To share a bit of this careful process, Ken joined me in the studio as I worked on the latest Bluff Pocket Blazer sample, made from a beautiful Natalie Gerber floral.

Jacket: Bluff Pocket Blazer (Fall 2020 release)
Photos: Ken Heinbecker